Saturday, 30 September 2006

Autumn Days



Autumn days when the grass is jewelled
And the silk inside a chestnut shell
Jet planes meeting in the air to be refuelled
All these things I love so well

Autumn is a wonderful time of year, full of visual and culinary opulence. As much as I love Summer I welcome the change Autumn brings and the fresher air after long, hot, sultry days.

I look forward to wrapping up in jumpers, curling up on the sofa when it’s dark and cold outside, watching fireworks light up the sky on bonfire night, kicking the red and gold leaves and, of course, enjoying the food.

Hot jacket potatoes, casseroles slowly bubbling in the oven, sticky sausages, warming soup and comforting puddings. There is an abundance of vegetables to choose from, the cooking slows down and meals become heartier and more homely. My kitchen never seems more welcoming than at this time of year.

Friday, 29 September 2006

Lemon and Courgette Risotto

I have a cold and it was chilly and almost dark when I walked home from work so I wanted comfort food. I had risotto in my mind as I looked in the fridge and the courgettes seemed a good choice.

The sharpness of the lemon awoke my dulled tastebuds whilst the creaminess of the rice and parmesan soothed, with the courgette offering a fresh bite.



Recipe

Heat 500ml of vegetable stock and keep on a low simmer.

In a separate pan sauté one large shallot in butter until soft. Stir in 100 grams of risotto rice and coat well. Add a slosh of vermouth (about 50ml) and allow the alcohol to burn off then stir until absorbed by the rice.

Dice a courgette and add to the pan along with the zest and juice of about half a lemon. Now add the stock, a ladleful at a time, stirring the rice continuously. Only add another ladleful once the rice has absorbed the previous ladleful. Keep stiring and adding the stock until the rice is al dente (which means it still has a bite to it). You may not need all of the stock.

Take off the heat and stir in a handful of grated parmesan cheese and a knob of butter, then season and serve.

Wednesday, 27 September 2006

Breaking Down The Casserole

I don’t have a set recipe for my basic casserole, what I put in it depends on my mood and what I have in. That’s what I love about making them; they can be very personal and adjusted to suit you, your budget, what’s in season and what’s in your fridge. I like the chopping, mixing, tasting, adding a bit of this, adding a bit of that, tasting again, the end result being different ever time.

I do however follow a particular, fairly standard method, which I’ll set out for you here.

Meat
Browning the meat first gives a really good flavour and seals in the juices. It needs to be well browned on a very high heat so that it forms a slight crust. Don’t put too much meat into the pan at once or it will just steam and not brown as you want it to. Once the meat is browned I remove it from the pan and then add the vegetables. Don’t use a clean pan – you want all the flavour from the meat!

Meat on the bone is really good for casseroles as you get all the additional flavour from the bones. I wouldn’t make a chicken casserole with chicken off the bone as there isn’t as much flavour as with other meats, such as beef.

Cheaper, less tender, cuts of meat such as shin of beef and neck of lamb work best in casseroles as they suit long, slow cooking and have a lot of flavour.

Chopped bacon can be a great addition; sautéed after the meat is browned and removed.

Flour
I don’t always add flour but it does thicken the casserole nicely. I either roll the meat in seasoned flour before browning the meat or add a tablespoon or two to the casserole before the liquid goes in.

Vegetables
My casseroles always have an onion base, often with carrot and celery. These are sautéed until soft after the meat has been browned and removed and before the liquid is added. I sometimes add crushed garlic which gives another note and depth that I find is particularly good with beef. Other vegetables that often find their way into my casseroles are shallots, leeks, parsnips, butternut squash, new potatoes and mushrooms.

Herbs and Seasoning
I find dried herbs work fine in casseroles, despite what the purists may say. In fact dried herbs seem to give a deeper note, but of course fresh are good too. I personally tend to stick to thyme, oregano or rosemary. Bay leaves are great too, but remember to remove them at the end of the cooking time!

Season when your liquids have gone in and check again at the end of the cooking time once the flavours have developed and the liquid has reduced. Be careful with salt particularly if you’ve added bacon or have a fairly salty stock.

Pulses
Pulses such as chickpeas or lentils make the casserole a full-on, hearty meal.

Liquids
Once the base vegetables are sautéed it’s time for good stock and any other liquids you want to add. I turn the heat up and deglaze the pan with alcohol or just the stock. The meat goes back in at this stage. Sometimes a tin of chopped tomatoes will go in, worcester sauce, tomato puree, beer, guiness, madeira, marsala or wine. There really is no set rule for casseroles, just go with your taste buds. Talking of which, I taste at this stage, once everything has been added to the casserole and the liquid has been brought to a boil, and I add more of this or that as I want.

Heat
Once the liquid is added bring it to the boil on the hob then put a lid on and put it in the oven to simmer slowly for a good couple of hours on a low to medium heat.

Finishing
Sometimes the liquid will need reducing before serving, to thicken it and deepen the flavour. I take the lid off and either put the dish back in the oven or on the hob on to simmer and reduce until I’m happy with the consistency and flavour. I check the seasoning at this point and adjust it if necessary.

Tuesday, 26 September 2006

Beauty Is Only Skin Deep

Photograph Ananova


This lowly parsnip is officially Britain’s ugliest vegetable. The parsnip’s resemblance to a deep sea creature won it first prize in the National Trust’s Ugliest Vegetable In Britain competition. The competition was launched in order to ‘celebrate ugly fruit and vegetables, which taste great but are usually rejected for their looks and size’.

So, can you find it in your heart to sauté a twisted leek or roast an elongated potato? Take another look at that forked carrot. Give an ugly vegetable a chance.

National Trust Article

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